In this blog article, Isabel, artist, textile designer, mum, and host of the Botanical Painting Workshops "Alchemy of Colors: Painting and Tasting Portuguese Nature", (see photo below), takes us on a tour of her hometown Póvoa de Varzim, a charming coastal city in northern Portugal, 30 km from Porto city centre, and known for its rich maritime heritage, beautiful sandy beaches, and vibrant cultural scene.
Let's go! :)
POVEIRA SWEATER
The Poveira Sweater is the first product from the municipality to be certified with a Protected Geographical Indication.
Made of thick white wool from the Serra da Estrela region, the Poveira Sweater dates back to the early 19th century. Embroidered with cross-stitch, it primarily features maritime motifs and initials. The colors used are three: White (the color of the knit), red, and black (embroidered onto the sweater in cross-stitch).
This garment was part of the traditional attire for male fishermen during religious pilgrimages and festivities, always chosen when representatives of the community were to be present with high-ranking political figures.
On February 27, 1892, the fishing community suffered a traumatic loss:
105 men lost their lives at sea, including 70 fishermen from Póvoa de Varzim and 35 from Afurada. This tragedy led to the founding of the Institute for Shipwreck Relief (ISN) by Queen Amélia.
Due to this great maritime tragedy, the mourning period marked the end of the use of the white attire. It was only in 1936, with the creation of the Poveiro Folklore Group, that António Santos Graça revived the distinctive and original Poveira Sweater.
The garment has evolved over time. Initially, the sweaters were simpler, with embroidery mostly confined to the chest area. Over time, as the cultural value of the product increased and artisans had more time to devote to their craft, the amount of embroidery grew significantly. New themes were incorporated, and it became common to embroider the wearer’s name on the sweater.
The Municipality of Póvoa de Varzim inaugurated, in December 2021, the Interpretation and Training Center of the Poveira Sweater, a space where visitors can learn more about the history of this iconic garment of our local identity.
Source: https://www.cm-pvarzim.pt/
ATELIER POVEIRO (SHOP AT JUNQUEIRA STREET)
The Atelier Poveiro is located on the city's main pedestrian street, offering handcrafted Poveira Sweaters and accessories. In addition to selling these iconic garments, the shop also provides training in the traditional techniques of knitting and cross-stitch embroidery. It’s a great place to learn and preserve the cultural heritage of Póvoa de Varzim.
Source: https://atelierpoveiro.com/
JUNQUEIRA STREET
Junqueira Street is one of the main pedestrian streets in Póvoa de Varzim, known for its lively atmosphere and central location. It is a popular area for both locals and visitors, lined with shops, cafes, and cultural spaces, making it a key part of the city's social and commercial life.
Source: Photo taken by Isabel
Source: https://www.cm-pvarzim.pt/territorio/visite-povoa-de-varzim/ponto-de-interesse/rua-da-junqueira/
CHAPEL OF SAO ROQUE
Chapel of Sao Roque is the historic Christian church in Povoa de Varzim, Portugal.
Here on a bright sunny day with blue sky.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
THEATRO
Theatro, is located in the city's former theater, now transformed into a space that combines a restaurant and a bookstore. In addition to the shelves filled with books and a copy available on each table, the kitchen is visible to the public, located in a modern container set within the historical environment of the theater. The experience is made even more special by the excellent quality of the food, making this place a perfect fusion of tradition, culture, and culinary innovation.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
SIGLAS POVEIRAS
The siglas poveiras are a proto-writing system used by the local community of Póvoa de Varzim, Portugal, for many generations.
The siglas poveiras were primarily used as signatures for family coat of arms to mark family belongings. The symbols were typically carved into wood using a razor, though painting them on boats and beach sheds was also a common practice.
The purpose of the siglas poveiras was to record history, leading them to be described as Póvoa's "writing system". However, since the siglas do not represent sounds or specific words, they are not considered a true writing system.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siglas_poveiras
Representation of Siglas Poveiras in an Azulejo. The picture represents "Ala-arriba!", pushing a boat to the beach by the community.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
THE TILE WALL
The Tile Wall, inaugurated in 2004, is a striking mural that showcases the city's fishing heritage. Located near the Póvoa Beach and marina, the wall is adorned with traditional Portuguese tiles depicting scenes of local life, particularly the fishing community. Spanning 120 meters, it offers a visual journey through the city's history and its deep connection with the sea, making it a popular attraction for both locals and tourists.
Source: Photo taken by Isabel
MERCEARIA RAUL & COSTA
Mercearia Raúl & Costa has been a beloved part of Póvoa de Varzim for almost 90 years. Originally founded in 1930, the store has undergone several name changes, but it is most known by its current name, which has become a symbol of tradition and community.
Entering the shop is like stepping into a sensory journey, where the harmonious blend of scents from spices, freshly ground coffee, salted cod, and cheeses evokes a comforting nostalgia. These smells are a gateway to memories, reminding customers of simpler times and the warmth of home.
Today, Mercearia Raúl & Costa continues to be a cherished local institution, preserving the charm and authenticity of traditional neighborhood shops, and remaining an integral part of the town’s heart and soul.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
PÓVOA DE VARZIM MUNICIPAL MARKET
On Saturday mornings, the Póvoa de Varzim Municipal Market is the perfect place to buy directly from farmers and flower vendors. "They bring their fresh produce, such as vegetables, fruits, and flowers, allowing us to connect directly with the producers. For me, it's where I purchase the vegetables, fruits, and flowers I use both at home and in my natural dyeing and watercolor work. I use these products to create unique pieces, drawing from the colors and textures of nature. It's a great opportunity to support local production while enriching my artistic process", says Isabel.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
FORTALEZA DE NOSSA SEHORA DA CONCEIÇÃO
Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, also known as the Fortaleza da Póvoa de Varzim, is a historic landmark, classified as a Property of Public Interest since 1960. Built in the 16th century for the defense of the city, the fortress features Renaissance architecture and offers stunning panoramic views of the sea. Today, the fortress houses a restaurant and hotel, allowing visitors to enjoy its history while sampling local cuisine. Inside its walls, you’ll also find the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a space of great religious and cultural significance.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
FORTALEZA DE NOSSA SEHORA DA CONCEIÇÃO
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
MARINA
The Póvoa de Varzim Marina is a modern nautical hub located along the Atlantic coast. Opened in 1997, it offers docking facilities for boats of various sizes and has become a popular spot for both locals and tourists. Surrounded by restaurants, bars, and shops, it’s a lively area for leisure and relaxation, with easy access to the city’s attractions. The marina is a key point for maritime tourism and a great place to enjoy the seaside atmosphere.
A significant feature of the marina is the sculpture by João Cutileiro, inaugurated on June 28, 2004. This marble sculpture honors the local fisherman, depicted holding a fish. The work, created in various shades of marble, symbolizes the strong connection between the Póvoa de Varzim community and its fishing heritage. Cutileiro, known for his human figure sculptures, beautifully captures the essence of this traditional occupation and the city’s cultural roots.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
SOLAR BOAT
The Solar Boat in Póvoa de Varzim is an eco-friendly way to explore the coastline. Powered entirely by solar energy, this boat offers scenic, sustainable tours of the city’s shoreline. It’s a relaxing, green alternative for visitors looking to enjoy the sea without harming the environment, making it a unique experience for those interested in nature and eco-tourism.
Source: https://www.vozdapovoa.com/noticias/local/passeios-turisticos-em-barco-solar
MOINHO HOUSE
Moinho House is a property located in Laundos, on Monte de São Félix, offering stunning panoramic views over Póvoa de Varzim. Ideal for those seeking a peaceful place to spend the night, it provides a cozy and relaxing atmosphere, with the charm of an old windmill. Perfect for a countryside getaway, with easy access and close to the natural beauty of the region.
Source: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/the-moinho-house.pt-pt.html
PÓVOA DE VARZIM CITY HALL
The Póvoa de Varzim City Hall is located in Praça do Almada, at the heart of the city, and is one of the most iconic buildings in the region. Built in the early 20th century, the building blends classical and contemporary architectural styles, offering a striking view of the square. The square itself is a great meeting point, surrounded by cafés and shops, making it perfect for leisurely strolls. The city hall is a place of great historical and architectural value, attracting tourists visiting the city.
Source: https://www.cm-pvarzim.pt/territorio/visite-povoa-de-varzim/ponto-de-interesse/pacos-do-concelho-da-povoa-de-varzim/
SCULPTURES
The sculpture below, created by sculptor Rui Anahory, was inaugurated on September 15, 1995, and honors the agricultural and fishing communities that are at the core of Póvoa de Varzim’s history. The work begins with a platform symbolizing the labor of the land, featuring a figure of a farmer sowing and an ox in effort, assisting with the tilling of the soil. Engraved on the bronze are elements representing the local culture, with both the farmer and the fisherman. The base of the sculpture includes a fisherman, and on the back, there is a symbolic image of effort, reminiscent of how fishermen drag their boats ashore.
Created by Jaime Azinheira, the monument below was inaugurated in 1997 as a tribute to the Póvoa de Varzim woman, strong and entrepreneurial, who has always played a key role in the fishing community. She was involved in activities related to fishing, such as selling fish and repairing nets, as well as daily tasks like managing the household and caring for the children.
Overlooking the shoreline of the cove, this monument evokes the fish auction, featuring a group of women in full activity.
Source: Photos taken by Isabel
...and that wraps up our city tour with Isabel.
Thank you, Isabel, for sharing your personal journey through your hometown, Póvoa de Varzim!
For those eager to experience this charming coastal town and unleash their creativity, be sure to check out Isabel's Botanical Painting Workshop "Alchemy of Colors: Painting and Tasting Portuguese Nature". Feel free to reach out to us or book your spot directly through our platform.
Isabel, artist, textile designer, mum, and host of the
Botanical Painting Workshops "Alchemy of Colors: Painting and Tasting Portuguese Nature" .