Ciao, you got mail from Tati again..
This time sending you an artsy virtual postcard from Orgosolo in Sardinia, Italy.
Are you ready to dive into socio-cultural street art heritage?
This small town (about 4000 inhabitants), that saw dark times of Sardinia's bloodiest family feuds (=disamistade) from 1913-1917 and was deemed the breeding ground of criminals for centuries (infamous for their raids "bardanas" of neighboring villages), now holds a lot of murals in less than a square kilometer - and about just as many tourists and souvenir shops.
It is located in the province of Nuoro in the Italian autonomous island of Sardinia at the heart of the supramonte mountain range.
Plenty of touristy souvenir shops can be found around the village of Orgosolo.
So, be warned this place is no secret tip anymore.
…but it holds a rich collection of (political) street art and urban art. The more than 150 artworks made it world famous.
Orgosolo Street Art: A brief history recap
Initially, the teacher and artist Francesco del Casino of the anarchist Milanese art group Dioniso not only painted the first mural in Orgosolo in 1968 but also formed a creative collective of students in the 1970's that translated concerns and political criticism into colorful murals. Del Casino’s motivation was said to be the inciting political curiosity in his students.
With time, more and more murals filled the village (from Sardinian shepherds to current inner and foreign policy topics).
You can find a mural about Julian Assange, COVID, the refugee situation as well as several ones expressing the support of Palestine. Most of the murals also contain a poem or a message highlighting the meaning of the art work.
Mural in Support of Palestine.
Mural in support of Julian Assange at Via Repubblica.
Mural holding strong criticism of the Covid policy that was enforced in the years of 2020 to 2021 (at Via Rafaele Calamida).
Murals criticizing the migrant crisis at Via Mazzini.
The artworks can be found mainly around Corso Repubblica, Via Cavour, Via Mazzini, Via Mani. They are divided into three different districts like indicated in the map below.
Nowadays, the murals have to be approved by the city. Since 1992, the artworks have become less and less political.
You can even do a guided tour with an audio guide for 5 Euros.
Little pro tip on the side:
Go without and try to guess the meaning of the Orgosolo Street Art first, then translate its message e.g. with Google Lens - sometimes you’d be surprised how far your guess was off!
The guides can be bought at the piazza di Caduti en guerra.
Orgosolo Street Art: Honoring a Sardinian Legend
Apart from political murals there is also one honoring one of the most famous football players in Sardinia: Gigi Riva.
He dedicated his entire career to the football club of Sardinia’s Capital, Cagliari. From the mid 1960's to the mid 1970's, he was one of the best strikers of all time and held a record at his club. His nickname was “Rombo di Tuono” = roar of thunder.
Murale Gigi Riva.
In between the political message of other murals, ones depicting the artisan heritage of Sardinia can be found as well.
An old man drinking wine at Corso Repubblica.
The work of a shepherd displayed in a different style at Corso de Rupubblica.
Orgosolo Street Art as historical document: Shepherd playing the typical Sardinian flute “Launedda” with three pipes. It has been used on the island for more than 2900 years.
Shepherd at Via Tiziano
This mural is debating a revolution of shepherds against their masters. It can be found at the intersection of Corso Rebubblica and Via I Maggio.
Mural of four working women at Via D’Azeglio.
Of course, internal politics play a role in the mural landscape as well….
Criticism of the Bank of Italia's Money Policy can be found near the Corso Repubblica as well.
The tiny, cricket streets have a lovely one of a kind charm. Sometimes, you find Orgosolo Street Art in the most unexpected places.
The advocacy for peace is a recurring theme in the Orgosolo Street Art.
This mural is depicting the famous Pratobello (= that translates to "beautiful pasture") Revolt 1669 in Orgosolo.
On the grounds of Pratobello, the Italian Army was supposed to conduct shooting practices. The inhabitants of Orgosolo resisted peacefully by flooding the land with about 3000 people (amongst them children, women and elderly) debating with the military. They managed to reach their goal and the troops never returned. Pratobelle became a "Ghost Town" with an abandoned church and houses. A demilitarised zone.
The art blends in perfectly - or does the coffee place blend in?
Orgosolo Street Art advocating for peace at Via Repubblica.
Some murals don't hold a political message: They are just cubistic, reminding a bit of Picasso's works. It can be found at Via Goceano.
Murals at the center of Orgosolo.
Next to Orgosolo Street Art there are other important Sardinan Artists and Cultural Figures.
Grazia Deledda was a writer born in the city of Nuoro close to Orgosolo in Sardinia. She wrote more than 30 books and was recognized with the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1926 for the novel “Canne al Vento” (= Reeds in the wind), a title criticizing the living conditions in Sardinia. Back then the society was shaped by patriarchy, poverty and the concept of “honor”.
Idyllic Orgosolo with mountain panorama
Besides Street Art in Orgosolo, here are some tips on how to get to Orgosolo, where to eat and what to avoid…
You can easily reach Orgosolo by bus from the next bigger town Nouoro (Number 509, approx. 30 min ride) - just be sure to check the timetable beforehand, for there are different schedules depending on the season.
Save your hunger for Gelato for a different occasion - most of the shops are very touristy and so are the ice cream parlors.
Have a coffee (aka espresso), wine or some food at the little local Braceria Amistade Wine Bar.
Make sure to soak in the atmosphere of the artsy, lively town and take a minute or two to yourself to ponder the subjects raised by the artists.
The Street Art in Orgosolo for sure surprised me with its strong messaging (which is mostly in Italian). I found myself confronted with a lot of topics to think about, yet amazed by the picturesque village and its artworks. If you happen to be in Sardinia, don’t miss out on this living document of Orgosolo Street Art and Urban Art history.
Ciao + much Love,
Tati
